T451 WEAVING I (4-2-4) Spring 2001

School of Textiles & Materials Technology

PROFESSOR'S OFFICE (Hayward Hall 105):

Marylyn Goutmann 215 - 951-2754; Office hours are posted on cubicle entrance

e-mail GoutmannP@PhilaU.edu OR 102663.330@compuserve.com

The structure and analysis of woven fabrics will be studied using CAD/CAM, pickouts and industrial equipment. Weave structures will include plain, twills, and satins and their derivatives, color effects, textural effects, and some filling pile constructions. Necessary loom controls (draw, chain and reed plans) will be used to relate lecture and laboratory work on dobby looms. Fabrics will be analyzed for weight, fabric count, yarn size, yarn crimp/ take-up and shrinkage where appropriate. Layout sheets will be compiled for total fabric reconstruction. Work will incorporate both SI and US Customary units.

It is hoped that combining the actual weaving of fabrics with the theory of structures will enable students to better understand both. The mathematical calculations needed to lay out simple fabrics are a necessary part of this process and therefore are also incorporated. In recognition of the importance of computer aided design [CAD] in today's industry, a portion of many assignments will utilize computers. The laboratory portion of the course will use analytic balances and other measurement equipment (Room 211, Hayward Hall), the Rinderman CAD lab (Room 117, Hayward) and the Weaving lab (ground floor, Hayward).

Yarn I (T301) is a prerequisite for this course and it is assumed that students thoroughly understand the mathematical mass and length relationship that forms the basis of all yarn number designations.

REQUIRED TEXT: Fabric Structure, Basic Weave Design, 3rd edition, M. Goutmann.

Fabric Structure, Reconstruction Analysis, M. Goutmann

ACADEMIC HONESTY

It is expected that students, in their preparation of lab and class assignments, quizzes, and examinations, will comply with the college's code of honesty as set forth in the Student Handbook. The collective discussion of course issues or assignments, constructive criticism of one another’s work or constructive assistance to one another is not regarded as dishonest. However, the submission of any work not assigned as a group project must ultimately be the work of the single individual. Plagiarism from published sources or other student's work, copying, or otherwise cheating on exams will not be tolerated if discovered.

For the first offense of duplicated plates or lab assignments, the involved students will share the mark equally. Subsequent offenses will receive zeros. Continued problems will be taken to the Student Conduct Committee.

GRADING

Assignments (Weave plates, analysis plates & lab reports) 60%

Quizzes 25%

Final Exam 15%

At the end of the semester, the grades from the two halves of the course -- weave structure and fabric analysis -- will be combined 50 - 50.

Class attendance is expected and essential for successful completion of the assignments.

SUPPLIES NEEDED

Felt tip, water base pens--red, black (Avoid permanent markers)

Weave design graph paper:

For plates, 4 squares/cm [10/inch], accented in 8 x 8 square grids

For class notes, any light blue graph paper

Solvent-based correction fluid, ink eradicator, or opaque "liquid paper"

Glue stick or adhesive (Rubber cement will not be permanent)

Weave Technology sheets (available in bookstore)

Pick glass or magnifier (a 1-inch aperture is the best )

Pick-out needle (large T pin, hat pin)

Calculator

High density floppy disk (2 for convenience). Put your name on them.

Folder or small binder for fabric analysis sheets

Small metal ruler with 1/100-inch divisions

Good quality scissors for fabric (small)

Paper cutting scissors

Slant tip tweezers