Anne Hand

Sequence of Operations: Garment Structures Shirt

• Wash and press fabric

Preliminary Operations

Collar and Stand:

• Block fuse top collar and slope.  Block fuse both collar stands and slope.
• Make collar using book sample for convertible collar. ¼” seam. Edgestitch collar.
• Sandwich collar between collar stands face sides together.  Sew to notches, ¼” seam.

 Pockets and Flaps:

• Block fuse flaps and slope.  Fuse pocket facings and overlock.
• Make pocket-using sample for patch pocket with flap.  3/8” seam.
• Make flap-using sample for patch pocket with flap.  3/8” seam.  Edgestitch.

Sleeves:

• Using handout, make plackets on bottom of sleeve.  ¼” seam.  Make sure you are working in pairs!
• Set pleats with 3/8” machine baste.

Left and Right Front:

• Referring to Patch Pocket with Flap sample set pockets with edgestitch using pencil marks for correct placement.  Set flap with 3/8” seam allowance.  Press and topstitch ¼”.
• Block fuse right front button band.  Slope.  Sew right side of band to wrong side of shirt. ½”seam. Press and fold to face side at notches and hand baste.  Edgestitch to set.
• Double turn left front placket at notches, press and edgestitch.

Assembly Operations

Back Shirt and Yoke:

• Set back pleat. 3/8” machine baste across top of pleat.
• Sandwich back shirt between two yokes, face sides together.  ½” seam.  Pres yokes up. Edgestitch.
• Sew top yoke shoulder seams to left and right fronts, face sides together. ½” seam.  Edgestitch.
• Clean finish shoulder seams with yoke facing.
• Set collar on neckline.  ¼” seam.
• Mark and make buttonholes on right front button band and collar stand.

Sleeve and Cuff Setting:

• Sew sleeve into armhole with French seam.  ½” seam.
• Close underarm seam using either mock flat fell or flat fell seam.  ½” seam.
• Fuse cuff, press in half lengthwise. Sew right side of cuff to wrong side of sleeve. ½” seam.  Press seam allowances towards cuff.  Press under ½” on long raw edge.
• Clean finish ends of cuff. Refer to waistband.  Edgestitch cuff to close.
• Mark and make buttonholes on cuffs.

Hem and Finishing:

• Hem shirttail. ¼” double turn machine topstitch.
• Mark button placement and sew buttons.
• Press, label and submit on hanger.