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SEAMS
cut 20 swatches in muslin,
4”X10” (10” on grain ) |
Basting -even
uneven
diagonal
Running
Backstitch
Half backstitch
Pickstitch
Plain seam |
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Machine baste 1/2” s. a.
Welt (lapped) 1/2” s. a.
Open welt 1/2” s. a.
French 1/2” s. a.
Safety stitch 1/2” s. a.
Flat felled 1/2” s. a.
Corded 3/8” s.a.
Slot seam |
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SEAM FINISHING
cut 14 swatches in muslin, 2 in wool
4”X10” (10” on grain) |
Overcast, Whipstitch
Blanket stitch
Machine stitch and turn under
Open bound edge (cut bias 1 1/2”) |
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Overlock (serge, merrow) open
Overlock closed
Stitch and pink
Open bound edge -seam tape (sewn in wool) |
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ZIPPERS
cut muslin using patterns |
Centered
Lapped
Handpicked |
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Fly
Invisible |
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HEMS
cut 4 swatches muslin, 6”X10”,
1 6”X16” (6”on grain)
cut 1, 6”X10” china
silk |
Pickstitch w/ lace 2” finish
Blindstitch -1/4” turn
with 2” finish
Catchstitch -stay stitch and pinked
Faced -stitch and pink
(sewn in wool) |
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Rolled 1/8” finish -(hand and machine) sewn in silk
Machine topstitch -1” finish (1 double turn, 1 overlock)
Machine blindstitch
Circular w/ seam tape 1 _” hem |
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BEGIN MUSLIN
SKIRT
DARTS AND DART EQUIVALENTS |
Darts: fisheye, waist
Pleats knife, cheap, inverted (box)
Elastic attached
foldover |
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Tucks -pin (fabric) space and blind
Bodice: 1/2 wool crepe, 1/2 taffeta
princess seams, faced neck, waist darts
sleeve setting: 1 set in w/ faced hem
1shirred w/ elastic hem
buttons, buttonholes, snap |
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FACINGS |
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Bias facing
(cut bias 1 1/2” X 21’”)
French piping (cut bias 2”X 21”) |
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Toddler dress: pull through facing, shirred skirt, machine or
hand hem
button and thread eye |
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BEGIN WOOL SKIRT
POCKETS |
Patch -unlined
Patch –lined
Flap w/unlined
Seam
Welt (sewn in wool) |
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Buttonhole pocket
Shorts: hip pockets
waistband: back elastic, front flat
machine hems |
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FABRIC TESTING - cut swatches 4”X10” (10” on
grain) as follows: 4 velvet, 2 silk charmuese, 2 poly charmuese,
2 linen, 2 china silk, cut bias 1 1/4”X 22” china silk,
2 cotton-spandex knit.
Use _” seams. |
Plain seams silk charmeuse
poly charmeuse
Hong Kong linen w/ china silk underlining and bias
Cotton-spandex overlock |
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velvet hand basted then machine stitched
machine stitched |
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BEGIN SHIRT
COLLARS |
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Convertible w/ bound buttonhole |
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Mandarin w/ chinese ball button and frog |
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CLOSINGS |
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Placket |
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